Let the blog tease begin!
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| Whew, ripping off ugly wallpaper is tiring work! |
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| Getting closer, but lots more work to do! |
Wednesday, November 6, 2013
Dime Interior TEASER!
Just a teaser post! Stay tuned to find out how you can do a DIVINE bathroom re-do for less than $150. Yup. That's right. I will say it again. A total bathroom makeover. All said and done for less than $150. Oh, and you can go from UGLY wallpaper, ripped linoleum, hole-in-the-ceiling, embarrassment of a bathroom to BEAUTIFUL bathroom in just three days. All by yourself. I know you can't wait for the full post!
Let the blog tease begin!
Let the blog tease begin!
Saturday, August 10, 2013
Strawberry Rhubarb Yummmmmm
I guess not every post can be about woodworking and therapy progression...
I am so happy to share my very first original recipe - and even more excited because it is a recipe for a summer dessert classic, with a few new spins.
Naming a new recipe is hard. Should I go with Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp Shortbread Bars with Almond Oat Topping? No - because that is WAY too long. So I am going to work on a short name, but in the meantime, here is the recipe for my first dessert!
This is basically a three part recipe that will fit into an 9 x 13 baking dish. First is the shortbread base, second is the filling and the third component is the topping. So let us begin with the shortbread.
Final Assembly!
Pour the fruit mixture over the shortbread, evenly spreading it out. Once that is all in, then using your hands, sprinkle even amounts of the topping all over the dessert. When finished, place it into a 350 degree oven for about 25 minutes, it should be golden brown on top and have thick bubbles coming up all around.
Remove and cool for at least 25 minutes, then serve warm with a dollop of fresh whip cream, vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberries. DIVINE :)
I am so happy to share my very first original recipe - and even more excited because it is a recipe for a summer dessert classic, with a few new spins.
 |
| Strawberry Rhubarb Shortbread Bars in a pretty Fiestaware Dish |
Naming a new recipe is hard. Should I go with Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp Shortbread Bars with Almond Oat Topping? No - because that is WAY too long. So I am going to work on a short name, but in the meantime, here is the recipe for my first dessert!
This is basically a three part recipe that will fit into an 9 x 13 baking dish. First is the shortbread base, second is the filling and the third component is the topping. So let us begin with the shortbread.
1 1/2 cups of butter @ room
temperature
1/2 cup superfine baking sugar (granulated will be fine)
1 teaspoon pure
vanilla extract
3 cups all purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
Final Assembly!
Pour the fruit mixture over the shortbread, evenly spreading it out. Once that is all in, then using your hands, sprinkle even amounts of the topping all over the dessert. When finished, place it into a 350 degree oven for about 25 minutes, it should be golden brown on top and have thick bubbles coming up all around.
Remove and cool for at least 25 minutes, then serve warm with a dollop of fresh whip cream, vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberries. DIVINE :)
Home Sweet Box Turtle Home
As far as pets go, box turtles are pretty easy. They don't shed, they don't bark and they don't pee on the carpet!
My husband has had Boxy since he was in first grade, which makes her at least 30 years old. She was fully grown when he got her, so she could be significantly older than 30. Boxy has such a sweet temperament. She actually likes being handled and she enjoys people talking to her. She is also incredibly intelligent. If I say "Hello Boxy" she will turn and look at me, but if I say "I'm hungry" in the same tone, she won't bother to look, she totally knows her name and when I am talking to her! Isn't she a cutie!?
Franklin is a male box turtle we adopted from the Colorado Reptile Humane Society. He is quite feisty! He was not in great shape when he came to us - his shell was cracked in several places and had deep ridges (a sign of malnutrition). So, his temperament could be the result of being "stolen" from the wild as an adult, or he could have been mistreated as a pet. In any case, he is with us now and we love him - spunky personality and all!
Box turtles require large habitats, both indoors and out. The smallest recommended size for a habitat is 18 square feet. Unfortunately, ours have only 8 square feet (each) when indoors. At one point I had built an outdoor enclosure that had about 20 square feet, but I built it back when I had about 1 month of woodworking experience and it quickly failed. The lid broke, the wood I chose rotted - it was pretty much a disaster. That enclosure sat in our yard for a year. Useless.
So, we finally got to work on building the NEW and improved habitat. My husband worked his buns off leveling a huge space of dirt out back and then laying cinder blocks down as a "foundation". Then I got to work building the enclosure, a 16' x 4' turtle mansion! Today, Boxy and Franklin have been enjoying their new habitat for about a week, and they look happier already! They each have 32 square feet of turtle heaven to enjoy!
Habitat details: the sides are made of redwood, the doors are all made of cedar. I used S2S cedar 1x4 boards to save some money. The doors all have thick gauge hardware cloth attached from the inside with heavy duty staples ( a LOT of heavy duty staples!). I used Kreg pocket hole joinery throughout the project (including the paneled doors), and I used ALL Kreg screws for the build. Finally, I finished it with a non-toxic oil finish made of vegetable oil and extracted wood oil. I had randomly come across the finish at World Market, and it seems to be working GREAT!
Normally, all of my projects are done with free, nearly free, or clearance materials. My bathroom remodel cost us around $75. This project is the exception to my upcycling rule, it is one of the most expensive things I have ever built, costing us more than my full bathroom remodel and kitchen remodel COMBINED. Total cost (including cinder blocks, lumber, screws, finish, hinges, handles and hardware cloth) rang in at approximately $340. But, I still can't complain! I really love it, and it will stand the test of time out in the backyard....and I think the turtles love it too :)
If you are interested in building something like this on your own, please contact me for plans, tips and tools needed to complete the build.
For more information on box turtles and their habitat requirements, please visit:
The Box Turtle Care and Conservation Website
Box Turtle World
For information on what plants you CAN'T plant with your box turtles, please visit:
The California Turtle and Tortoise Club
Turtle Forums
Turtle Times: forums, habitats and more!
My husband has had Boxy since he was in first grade, which makes her at least 30 years old. She was fully grown when he got her, so she could be significantly older than 30. Boxy has such a sweet temperament. She actually likes being handled and she enjoys people talking to her. She is also incredibly intelligent. If I say "Hello Boxy" she will turn and look at me, but if I say "I'm hungry" in the same tone, she won't bother to look, she totally knows her name and when I am talking to her! Isn't she a cutie!?
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| Boxy - checking out her new terrarium decor |
 |
| Franklin - munching on baby packet salmon. |
Box turtles require large habitats, both indoors and out. The smallest recommended size for a habitat is 18 square feet. Unfortunately, ours have only 8 square feet (each) when indoors. At one point I had built an outdoor enclosure that had about 20 square feet, but I built it back when I had about 1 month of woodworking experience and it quickly failed. The lid broke, the wood I chose rotted - it was pretty much a disaster. That enclosure sat in our yard for a year. Useless.
 | ||
| First Generation habitat: it looked good at first...but quickly became a useless garbage pile in the backyard. |
So, we finally got to work on building the NEW and improved habitat. My husband worked his buns off leveling a huge space of dirt out back and then laying cinder blocks down as a "foundation". Then I got to work building the enclosure, a 16' x 4' turtle mansion! Today, Boxy and Franklin have been enjoying their new habitat for about a week, and they look happier already! They each have 32 square feet of turtle heaven to enjoy!
 |
| The finished habitat, the legs go through a cinder block foundation, and then into the ground an additional 6". |
 |
| My favorite part of the build - these doors! Nicer than the ones in my house! |
 | ||
| Here is the habitat in place on top of the blocks and filled with substrate! Hooray! |
Normally, all of my projects are done with free, nearly free, or clearance materials. My bathroom remodel cost us around $75. This project is the exception to my upcycling rule, it is one of the most expensive things I have ever built, costing us more than my full bathroom remodel and kitchen remodel COMBINED. Total cost (including cinder blocks, lumber, screws, finish, hinges, handles and hardware cloth) rang in at approximately $340. But, I still can't complain! I really love it, and it will stand the test of time out in the backyard....and I think the turtles love it too :)
If you are interested in building something like this on your own, please contact me for plans, tips and tools needed to complete the build.
For more information on box turtles and their habitat requirements, please visit:
The Box Turtle Care and Conservation Website
Box Turtle World
For information on what plants you CAN'T plant with your box turtles, please visit:
The California Turtle and Tortoise Club
Turtle Forums
Turtle Times: forums, habitats and more!
Sunday, February 10, 2013
Beeswax & Mineral Oil Wood Finish
I am still working on the sign I made for my son's room. Yesterday, I put a natural finish on the sign backing. The result of the beeswax and mineral oil finish I used is simply divine. Looks good, feels better! Bonus, my husband thinks the board smells like honey now. Yum!
This recipe is totally natural, you can use it for any wood in your home, including butcher block cutting boards and counter tops. So if you have leftover finish, polish up your house!
What you need:
A hunk of beeswax
A bottle of mineral oil
An old sock or thread bare dish towel, or whatever application rag floats your boat.
A pan or pot (one you aren't using for food that will work as a double boiler top)
A plastic scraper of some sort (I used an offset painters knife)
Sandpaper
Step One:
Give your project a good sanding. I went all the way to 600 grit because I didn't want my rag snagging in the wood grain when I was applying the finish. But, this was total overkill. Go to 220 and you will be just fine.
Step Two:
Make the finish. I used a 60/40 ratio of mineral oil to beeswax. You can adjust the proportions to get the consistency you like. Too hard? Reheat and add more mineral oil. Too soft? Reheat and add more beeswax. Tip: harder is better for jobs like protecting and lubricating saw blades (rub it on the teeth of your backsaw and cut some dovetails. So awesome.)
Using a double boiler (your junky pan on top of the pot you are using to boil the water in), melt your beeswax. Add the mineral oil (sidebar: cool science, the mineral oil solidifies as soon as it hits the beeswax! Neat!). Stir well with whatever you have on hand (a paint stick or scrap sticks work nicely). When the mixture is thoroughly blended and all clear, remove from heat and take to your workplace.
Step Three:
I let the mixture cool for a few minutes and then used a plastic painters knife to mix it around, scraping the sides of the pan as I went and keeping the mixture together in a blob. Once it was cool enough to handle, I put a dollop inside an old sock. The mixture squished out of the threadbare sock so I could apply it lightly and evenly to the whole board.
Step Four
Apply the beeswax and mineral oil mixture onto your project by rubbing it on in small circles. Just look at the difference already!! So shiny!
Step Five
Now you just have to wait a bit. Once you have applied your wax to the entire board, it will look like the photo below. All shiny with small swirls still visible. I went inside to eat some dinner while my wax soaked in to the board.
Step Six
Buff! Get a clean sock or another disposable soft clean rag and buff the piece in small circles. The excess wax will ball up as you go. Keep refolding the clean rag so you are actually buffing excess off instead of just spreading it around.
Step Seven
Admire your work! This board is so smooth, and water beads up on it so nicely! I wish I had butcher block counters so I could use more wax in my house!
More uses!
Our family got the toboggan out today so we could go hunt wood in the forest. I wanted to find some great old stumps for another project I am working on. Our large toboggan had certainly seen better days - the wood was flaking and in terrible shape. Enter the leftover mixture I had from this post. That toboggan has NEVER looked better, and it slid along the snow like butter on butter. So, if you have an old sled laying around that needs some love - give it the beeswax and mineral oil treatment!
How did this work for you?
This recipe is totally natural, you can use it for any wood in your home, including butcher block cutting boards and counter tops. So if you have leftover finish, polish up your house!
What you need:
A hunk of beeswax
A bottle of mineral oil
An old sock or thread bare dish towel, or whatever application rag floats your boat.
A pan or pot (one you aren't using for food that will work as a double boiler top)
A plastic scraper of some sort (I used an offset painters knife)
Sandpaper
Step One:
Give your project a good sanding. I went all the way to 600 grit because I didn't want my rag snagging in the wood grain when I was applying the finish. But, this was total overkill. Go to 220 and you will be just fine.
Step Two:
Make the finish. I used a 60/40 ratio of mineral oil to beeswax. You can adjust the proportions to get the consistency you like. Too hard? Reheat and add more mineral oil. Too soft? Reheat and add more beeswax. Tip: harder is better for jobs like protecting and lubricating saw blades (rub it on the teeth of your backsaw and cut some dovetails. So awesome.)
Using a double boiler (your junky pan on top of the pot you are using to boil the water in), melt your beeswax. Add the mineral oil (sidebar: cool science, the mineral oil solidifies as soon as it hits the beeswax! Neat!). Stir well with whatever you have on hand (a paint stick or scrap sticks work nicely). When the mixture is thoroughly blended and all clear, remove from heat and take to your workplace.
Step Three:
I let the mixture cool for a few minutes and then used a plastic painters knife to mix it around, scraping the sides of the pan as I went and keeping the mixture together in a blob. Once it was cool enough to handle, I put a dollop inside an old sock. The mixture squished out of the threadbare sock so I could apply it lightly and evenly to the whole board.
Apply the beeswax and mineral oil mixture onto your project by rubbing it on in small circles. Just look at the difference already!! So shiny!
 |
Now you just have to wait a bit. Once you have applied your wax to the entire board, it will look like the photo below. All shiny with small swirls still visible. I went inside to eat some dinner while my wax soaked in to the board.
 | |||||||||||||
Buff! Get a clean sock or another disposable soft clean rag and buff the piece in small circles. The excess wax will ball up as you go. Keep refolding the clean rag so you are actually buffing excess off instead of just spreading it around.
Step Seven
Admire your work! This board is so smooth, and water beads up on it so nicely! I wish I had butcher block counters so I could use more wax in my house!
.
More uses!
Our family got the toboggan out today so we could go hunt wood in the forest. I wanted to find some great old stumps for another project I am working on. Our large toboggan had certainly seen better days - the wood was flaking and in terrible shape. Enter the leftover mixture I had from this post. That toboggan has NEVER looked better, and it slid along the snow like butter on butter. So, if you have an old sled laying around that needs some love - give it the beeswax and mineral oil treatment!
How did this work for you?
Drawer Pull Stencil Guide
Have you ever tried to install a drawer pull? Have you ever screwed it up? I have.
I have screwed up so royally that, even though the handle is ON, you can still see the screws...I would post the picture so you can see what I mean, but I am too ashamed.
I even bought one of those handy dandy guides that they sell in hardware stores, but those only work if you want to install within an inch of the top of the drawer, or if you have magical powers. I wanted drawer pulls installed just above center horizontally - and I am no magician.
I needed a solution before attempting to install my next drawer pull. So, here it is. An easily customizable guide you can make yourself! No more screws showing! No more eye rolls from my husband!
Supplies you will need:
Clear "Cut Your Own Stencils" sheets (I purchased at Michaels, the brand is "Plaid")
Self Healing Cutting Mat
Carpenters Square
Tape
Sharpie
Drawer Pull
Hammer
Scrap Block
Xacto Blade or other cutting blade
Large Nail
Pencil
Drill Guide (totally optional)
Step One
Cut a piece of the stencil for your guide. Carefully align the stencil on top of the lines on the cutting mat. You want a straight and square piece so it is easy to line up later. Tape the stencil sheet to the cutting mat so it won't shift around and go out of alignment. And, if you are like me and not sure of how steady you can hold the straight edge while using a sharp knife - go ahead and tape the straight edge down, too!
Step Two
Take the piece of stencil you just cut and line it up on your cutting mat, again keeping it straight on the lines. Then place your drawer pull on top of it using the guide lines. This way the handle is straight in line with the edge of the stencil sheet.
Then tape the the handle down, keeping it straight...
Step 3
Pick it up, flip it over and use your Sharpie to mark the hole locations.
Step Four
Remove the handle and put the stencil on top of your scrap wood block. The drive the nail through the holes you marked with a hammer.
Step Five
Now you have a stencil sheet with holes right where your drawer pull holes are! But we aren't quite done yet. Your stencil now has little protrusions in the back where the nail exited. Get rid of those so your stencil will lay flat when you put it on the drawer. I used my knife to shave the protrusions right off. Careful to not rip bigger holes!
Step Six
You want to add a cross to your stencil. These lines will help you line up your stencil on any drawer front, no matter what size it is! Make sure the lines are PERFECTLY straight. Crooked lines will = crooked drawer pull!
Double check they are perfectly straight by using your square on every edge and at the intersection where the lines meet...
You can now go to your drawer front. Use a pencil and make a vertical line at the center of the drawer. Then choose the level on the horizontal where you want your drawer pull to be. Draw a perfectly straight line horizontally on your drawer at that level. So, now you should have a cross on your drawer. Then put the cross on the stencil on top of the cross on your drawer.
Now, using a pencil through the lines on your stencil, mark the hole locations on the drawer. Remove the stencil and you can drill your holes and install the drawer pull. If you want even more certainty, use a drill guide...
This handy device keeps your drill bit perfectly straight while you drill your hole. Because, nothing would suck more than doing all of this work only to hold your drill at an angle and have your dang screws showing after you install your drawer pull!
How did this work out for you??
I have screwed up so royally that, even though the handle is ON, you can still see the screws...I would post the picture so you can see what I mean, but I am too ashamed.
I even bought one of those handy dandy guides that they sell in hardware stores, but those only work if you want to install within an inch of the top of the drawer, or if you have magical powers. I wanted drawer pulls installed just above center horizontally - and I am no magician.
I needed a solution before attempting to install my next drawer pull. So, here it is. An easily customizable guide you can make yourself! No more screws showing! No more eye rolls from my husband!
Supplies you will need:
Clear "Cut Your Own Stencils" sheets (I purchased at Michaels, the brand is "Plaid")
Self Healing Cutting Mat
Carpenters Square
Tape
Sharpie
Drawer Pull
Hammer
Scrap Block
Xacto Blade or other cutting blade
Large Nail
Pencil
Drill Guide (totally optional)
Cut a piece of the stencil for your guide. Carefully align the stencil on top of the lines on the cutting mat. You want a straight and square piece so it is easy to line up later. Tape the stencil sheet to the cutting mat so it won't shift around and go out of alignment. And, if you are like me and not sure of how steady you can hold the straight edge while using a sharp knife - go ahead and tape the straight edge down, too!
Take the piece of stencil you just cut and line it up on your cutting mat, again keeping it straight on the lines. Then place your drawer pull on top of it using the guide lines. This way the handle is straight in line with the edge of the stencil sheet.
Then tape the the handle down, keeping it straight...
Step 3
Pick it up, flip it over and use your Sharpie to mark the hole locations.
Remove the handle and put the stencil on top of your scrap wood block. The drive the nail through the holes you marked with a hammer.
Now you have a stencil sheet with holes right where your drawer pull holes are! But we aren't quite done yet. Your stencil now has little protrusions in the back where the nail exited. Get rid of those so your stencil will lay flat when you put it on the drawer. I used my knife to shave the protrusions right off. Careful to not rip bigger holes!
Step Six
You want to add a cross to your stencil. These lines will help you line up your stencil on any drawer front, no matter what size it is! Make sure the lines are PERFECTLY straight. Crooked lines will = crooked drawer pull!
Double check they are perfectly straight by using your square on every edge and at the intersection where the lines meet...
How did this work out for you??
Sunday, February 3, 2013
The AVIATOR
My wonderful friend built a small wooden biplane and gave it to my son on his first birthday. When she was done, she wondered aloud to her husband what to name the plane. Her husbands response...
My son's name is Avi (pronounced: ah-VEE). So you can see why I think that this is quite possibly the most clever name and design in history. It is also the cutest little plane I have ever seen. My friend built it - out of wood and I love it and Avi loves it. So, it is only natural that for his third birthday we take this plane and create an entire room.
Today, I made a sign.
I was going to add the little plane seen above the "V" on the sign, but decided it was too "babyish". I think this sign is SO cool, I really hope he keeps it on his wall until he is at least ten, so baby looking planes are not allowed.
I feel torn over the letter colors: do I leave them white, or find a really great color that will stand the test of time against the dark stained wood?? Decisions!!
Another AMAZING addition to the room is definitely this:
A gift from Aunt Sara...a perfect replica of a WWI plane propeller with a clock in it! Apparently the pilots of those planes used to crash quite a bit, and they would take home the propeller and have a clock mounted inside...so this is quite the gift!! And it is BEAUTIFUL!
Next up on the Aviator's room project, mommy needs to build....
A full on airplane SHELF. So rad!! I have plans sketched up and am excited to figure this one out! Yay!
Next time I will post the instructions for the sign and also (very exciting!!) how to make a PERFECT template for your cabinet door handles and drawer pulls!
UPDATE...
The sign is DONE!! Really happy with the final result. Used the beeswax and mineral oil finish and it looks so amazing on here! Now all I have to do is hang this up in my son's room, where it will hopefully hang until he is 100 years old...
My son's name is Avi (pronounced: ah-VEE). So you can see why I think that this is quite possibly the most clever name and design in history. It is also the cutest little plane I have ever seen. My friend built it - out of wood and I love it and Avi loves it. So, it is only natural that for his third birthday we take this plane and create an entire room.
Today, I made a sign.
It isn't done yet, but I was too excited to wait to post this! I will post instructions for how to do it yourself, but you can probably tell it was easy peasy! The worst part was trying to not inhale as I applied that dark stain on the back panel. Even outside, the vapors were intense. I have a total toxic fume headache now.
I was going to add the little plane seen above the "V" on the sign, but decided it was too "babyish". I think this sign is SO cool, I really hope he keeps it on his wall until he is at least ten, so baby looking planes are not allowed.
I feel torn over the letter colors: do I leave them white, or find a really great color that will stand the test of time against the dark stained wood?? Decisions!!
Another AMAZING addition to the room is definitely this:
Next up on the Aviator's room project, mommy needs to build....
Next time I will post the instructions for the sign and also (very exciting!!) how to make a PERFECT template for your cabinet door handles and drawer pulls!
UPDATE...
The sign is DONE!! Really happy with the final result. Used the beeswax and mineral oil finish and it looks so amazing on here! Now all I have to do is hang this up in my son's room, where it will hopefully hang until he is 100 years old...
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